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Tag Archives: Mary16

A Baby Quilt for Mary – Quilting in Two Colors & Flipping a Quilt

March 2, 2011 5:09 am by Ebony in Long Arm, Mr. Darcy

Last Sunday, I actually had a couple of special deliveries, and one was to pick up a baby quilt that our guild made for the President, Mary, who is expecting.  It was a super-secret project, and I couldn’t even blog about it or post on Facebook so as not to ruin the surprise (yup, it’s the same Mary #16!)  But now?  Let’s take a look! First, a little bit of a warning: I was very sloppy about taking pictures, so I’ll try to explain the in-between parts. My friend Beth organized the super-secret project, and we decided to do a quilt based on liberated quilting (a la Gwen Marston).  The instructions were to make a block that was 12″ in one dimension by whatever other length you wanted to make it.  Just to prove that I am also someone who doesn’t follow instructions all the time, I made a block that was only 8″ x 10″, requiring the group to do some extra piecing to bring my block up to size.  Where have I heard that before?  Amazingly, we did not discuss color at all, but nearly every block used orange in it, so the quilt coordinated surprisingly well. The pieces of paper pinned to the quilt are the names of the quilter who made the block.  This figures into the quilting, as you will see in a second. Now, for this quilt, I actually had a consultation with my friend Wendy and her daughter who I’ll call Tracy (because I like disguising the names of my friend’s minor children) who came to my house for a visit.  Yes, my secret is out: I will very often turn to my friends to advise me on thread colors and quilting designs!  It helps to bounce ideas off of other people or get their thoughts on something.  In the end, I do make the final choice, but I do not mind getting help.  In this case, I had decided to use two different thread colors on the quilt, and I wanted to choose the perfect shade of orange and the perfect shade of purple for the quilting.  The issue arises when you have 5 oranges and 3 or 4 purples to choose from!  What I did know is that there was no time to order thread, so I would have to make do with what I had. We ended up choosing Superior So Fine # 533 Real Orange and #441 Purple Iris.  Lovely, lovely threads! I wound 2 bobbins of orange and one bobbin of purple, which in a moment, you’ll be scratching your heads at exactly how I came to wind the exact opposite of what was needed.  I told you I was bad at estimating! With that chore over, the ladies also helped me pick the right shape for what I had planned for the quilting.  I settled on doing a freehand Sunburst (my term) based on a design I used in my Oh Cherry Oh ruler sampler. It did require my circle ruler set, but not for what you might think: In this case, I used the different circles to outline spaces in each of the blocks.  I also wrote the name of the quilter inside the circle so I could remove the paper & pins (Mr. Darcy does not find paper & pins very tasty at all.)  This is my block which was resized: Sometimes, when you’re working on a quilt, you just will not be able to avoid the necessity of marking it. I have heard so many horror stories about marking quilts (disappearing inks reappearing later; washout inks not washing out all the way, etc.) that I rarely, rarely use anything but chalk to mark quilts, and I try to mark them as little as possible, and only use white chalk for good measure.  You need not be as fearful as I am, but since chalk has worked for me 95% of the time, I’m sticking with it. For this quilt, the circles only indicate loose boundaries, so I don’t really care whether I can see the circle all the way around.  I’m not quilting on the line, I’m quilting TO the line.  Next up was to load the quilt: You’ll notice that I am floating the quilt top completely.  Well, only a couple of days ago I was telling you about floating quilt tops that were not completely square, but that’s not the only reason to float a quilt top.  In this case, I floated it because I needed to be able to advance the quilt in some areas, and then reverse the quilt in other areas to get to all the sections.  Remember I’m stitching in two colors and the circles are staggered, so for efficiency, I stitched all of the orange first, then I changed colors and quilted the purple.  This worked out really well! So just to be a little bit more clear… the backing is attached to two rails at the top and bottom, like a scroll.  The batting itself always “floats”, and the top is usually attached at the bottom to a third rail.  That’s the rail you see sitting on top of the quilt sandwich.  Well, right now the quilt is in 3 separate pieces, so with the quilt top free, I can roll & unroll the quilt and it can be treated like a scroll even when it is quilted.  However, if I attach the quilt top to the top rail, once I start stitching, the quilt is no longer in 3 pieces, it’s one piece, so I can only advance the quilt in one direction; I can’t unroll it past the point that’s been quilted.  Clear as mud?  Anyway, that was just me stalling, because I actually failed to take any photos of just the orange getting quilted! How unbelievable is that?  Well, here’s what happened: First, I used a very, very short stitch length (like 20 spi) to quilt the names of the block maker in orange: Then, I lengthened the stitch, spiraled around it, and did these loose sun rays around the spiral.  I needed the small stitches for the names because a smaller stitch means I can have a smaller area of quilting but still get smooth curves.  It’s very common for micro-stippling.  I did all the sunbursts in orange first. Once I got done, it was time to add the purple!  Now, the tough thing about the purple was twofold: for one, the quilt top was so busy that the orange stitches nearly disappeared into the quilt, so I actually could not see the sunbursts.  if you can’t see them, you can’t quilt around them, and that’s a problem. Second, there were four blocks on the back made by other quilters, and it didn’t seem fair for the quilters on the front to get recognized but not the ones on the back.  So their names needed to be in there too.  Writing words backward on paper is hard – to do it in cursive, while quilting, is a feat that I’m not really skilled for.  So the solution had to be to flip the quilt! In my case, I use zippers on my leaders, so it’s easy enough to take the quilt off to flip it, but the problem with that is the zippers are now facing the wrong way.  You don’t want to remove the zippers because then the quilt gets a different tension and things will get out of sorts.  So I solved the problem by taking a couple of extra zippers that I had and making a flip set.  Basically, you need 4 zipper halves, and you’re essentially stitching together the matching zipper of the ones on the quilt backing to the matching zipper that’s on the leader.  Clear as mud?  Good, because there’s not a picture of that either!  Suffice to say that I was successful in flipping the quilt.  This was also less complicated because even though the thread colors are different, the weight is the same, so I can expect the tension to be nearly spot-on from what was on the quilt before, and no one would be able to tell that I flipped the quilt over. Here’s the beginning – I like it already, and I think this is going to be one of my signature free motion designs. Coming right along and nearing the bottom – that was fast! My stops & starts are pretty horrendous, eh?  Well, I’m still practicing… but I’ve gotten to the bottom! So now you can see why it was a mistake to wind two orange bobbins and only one purple.  I had way too much orange (didn’t even make a dent in the first bobbin) and not enough of the purple (which meant I had to stop… cut the top thread, go wind a bobbin, and rethread the entire machine!) But it looks super-cool in my opinion.  The batting I used is Legacy 50/50 Bamboo/Cotton blend.  I chose it because I know bamboo is super soft & cuddly for a baby, but I didn’t have a big enough piece left of 100% bamboo (and the replacement order was not going to arrive in time to use it.)  Incidentally, you have to be really careful that you’re really buying bamboo that’s been made in an environmentally-sustainable way, without harsh processing, chemicals, or air pollution.  Legacy batting meets those requirements, for which I am very glad, as does the 100% bamboo that I get from another source. So here’s the front of the quilt all done up: And a photo of the back so you can see the cool effect of the two different thread colors: Now, the quilt was sent off to be bound by someone else (my friend Sarah) and she also washed it too.  The quilt was so beautiful and cuddly when we gave it to Mary, but I didn’t actually get a photo of it!  So if anyone reading this has one, please be sure to pass it along… To endless possibilities, Ebony

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Long Arm Quilting: #16 Mary – Finished Quilt

January 17, 2011 1:26 pm by Ebony in HONE, Long Arm, Mr. Darcy

I wanted to be sure & post photos of Mary’s finished quilt! You all might be wondering why I’m jumping around in the list.  Well, I never expected to quilt these in any particular order, although I do feel a bit of guilt about not having quilted the very first quilt to arrive – the Rail Fence that Donna sent.  I am happy to report though that it does have zippers on it, and I did decide how to quilt it, and selected an amazing King Tut variegated thread for it.  Perhaps the person I feel most sorry for is whoever is going to be last!  Maybe I should put all the numbers in a basket and pick out whatever number comes out to work on instead of going purely by whim & caprice? Boy do I have a lot to say other than what I’m supposed to be posting about!  So on to Mary’s quilt.  One advantage to loading it sideways is that it quilted up faster, with fewer passes.  As I look at doing other quilts, I’m going to evaluate the same option, especially if I have a non-directional quilt and I’m quilting in a non-directional way. Here is the front of Mary’s quilt: Here is the back of Mary’s Quilt: And here is a cool closeup: I really love the curling and swirling on this very linear quilt, and I love the thread too. The variation in the stitching is subtle but it has an almost shimmery quality. To endless possibilities, Ebony

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Long Arm Quilting: #16 Mary & the Pantograph

January 17, 2011 4:39 am by Ebony in HONE, Long Arm, Mr. Darcy

There are so many different ways to quilt – the possibilities are endless, and I feel like I’ll never get to learn them all or well! Feathers are such a daunting prospect that I don’t even feel good enough to PRACTICE.  How silly is that? Anyway, I digress.  The point of this post was really to talk about pantographs, but first I think it best to describe the different types of long arm quilting.  In general, they fall into a few distinct categories and subcategories.  At the highest level, you have the distinction between hand guided and computer driven. I am not the one to cast aspersions on the computer driven set – it does have its own set of skills to be learned and mastered.  You still need to know how to load a quilt, balance the tension, and have some design sensibilities as well.  Knowing what pattern complements a quilt cannot be replaced by any computer.  And certainly, there are some very talented individuals who do not have the time or inclination to develop skills in hand guided quilting. One the other end of the spectrum are quilters like me who feel the same about learning the computerized side!  I must admit to having entertained on more than one occasion the purchase of the computer module for my own dear Mr. Darcy, but I have so far resisted because I really feel strongly about the need to feel the machine in my hands, to strive for my own brand of perfection, and inject my personality into my wobbly, tentative stitches. If you follow the quilting lines on a hand guided quilt, you can almost read an entire story in them.  I don’t know if I’ll ever be ready to give that up. Back to the quilting.  So on the hand guided side, you’ve got a few different subcategories – free-motion, stencil, ruler work, and pantograph.  I really will explain ruler work one day, but I’m working up the nerve (see the note above about feathers).  And stencils?  Maybe someday. I’ve mostly been concentrating on free-motion, but from time to time, I get an itch to do a pantograph. If you don’t know what a pantograph is – I’ll explain.  It’s essentially a continuous line quilting design (meaning I can quilt from one end of it to the other without starting & stopping my stitching line) that is typically on a 12′ long roll of paper.  It can be anywhere from 2″ wide all the way up to 16″ or more.  The designs can be anything from simple to intricate, and they take some of the fuss out of quilting.  The disadvantage to pantographs though is that you cannot look at the quilt at all while you’re stitching, so you have to have a high degree of confidence in your tension & the flatness of the quilt, and whether you still have thread.  I sometimes go online and surf around different sites looking at pantograph patterns, and I came across one that instantly called out to me, because I knew exactly what quilt it should go on: Mary #18. Mary’s quilt is a strip quilt, but it is dynamic and elegant and just reminded me of a walk in the woods.  I love having all these quilt tops from other people because they’re like a catalog in my head; I flip through them from time to time, thinking about how I would quilt them and how they might look.  I love having the flexibility to choose any of them at will to work on when inspiration hits, and so it was with Mary’s quilt. I chose a gorgeous variegated King Tut thread for this quilt, in different shades of green, to complement the greens and browns and yellows and lilac (yes, lilac) in her quilt: The pantograph itself is called “Wood Grain” and it seemed really perfect for this.  I don’t know that I will ever have occasion to use it again, but I can’t imagine having done anything else on this quilt. Free motion quilting, rulers, stencils – all those are worked from the front of the machine, but pantographs are worked from the rear.  My machine has a table to hold the pantograph, a grid to help align it, a laser light to enable me to follow the line, and a set of handles with independent controls.  It’s like having two machines in one! Well, when you’re aligning the pantograph, you need to identify the left & right side of the quilt (so you know where your panto begins & ends within the quilt) and align the laser so you can follow within the boundaries. So I got this all set up, I started quilting, and something was wrong.  Ok, something was wrong besides the tension.  As I was quilting, I discovered that when I moved the machine a certain direction, I couldn’t see where I was going.  Can you see why? Well, I will tell you.  The laser light is too close to the machine!  When I stand behind it, the machine actually obscures my line of sight, and I’m not able to see where I’m going.  I had to stand at a really awkward angle, sometimes standing on tip-toe, to see where the pattern was going.  It was like driving in a fog.  So I needed to adjust the position of the laser. This is where pantographs themselves, and my handy Pattern Grid come in handy.  You see, most pantographs have a recognizable repeat, so I identified the repeat that matched the edge of my quilt: The right, in the red marker, is the original position.  The orange strip identifies the outside edge of the quilt.  The red marker is where I redrew some of the pattern so that it fell within the edge of the quilt and I didn’t have really awkward paths. On the left, is green marker and another orange strip.  This is the next repeat of the pattern, in the same position, and the green marker is where I redrew the pattern.  This is the new edge of my quilt and where I will realign the laser. Do you see how much farther out from the machine the laser is now?  This allows me to stand exactly behind the machine, but look to my left for the laser beam.  It’s so much more comfortable than the twisting I was doing before! So here’s a little peek at Mary’s quilt with the quilting on it.  It’s not “computer” perfect, but it seems to add a bit of character to it in a way that is not distracting.  In any event, I am rather pleased with how it turned out, and I do love the thread although it was a very subtle choice. I did learn something else:  I cannot quilt when I am tired!  The pantograph may seem like a lazy way to quilt, but if you don’t really pay attention to where the laser is going, you can really mess up the quilting pattern.  I may be able to piece & cut when I’m tired, but quilting is out. And I really need to get to the bottom of my pesky tension problems!  I just don’t think I should need to mess with the tension so very much – it’s absurd! To endless possibilities, Ebony

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Long Arm Quilting: More Preparation Tips

January 17, 2011 1:39 am by Ebony in HONE, Long Arm, Mr. Darcy

Before I get to the subject of today’s post, I have to crow about my new(est) toy! Yes, the Rowenta DG8030 is back in the studio, and I have proven that the previous one I had was a complete & total dud! I had this one on all day, and after about 5 minutes the initial smell dissipated, and the iron did not self destruct as the last one did.  I am so relieved! Coupled with my Reliable Long Board, I now have a pressing powerhouse at my disposal.  I got 4 more quilts ready for Mr. Darcy: With the addition of the new steam generator, I no longer find daunting the task of pressing folds out of the quilt tops that have come in. Note that I said “pressing out folds” not “pressing entire quilts”.  I have decided that, if a quilt came in with more wrinkles than just the folds from shipping, I am going to quilt it that way.  Seriously – it can take HOURS to press a queen or king sized quilt top, hours more to press the backing, and I think I was very fair to people in giving instructions on what to do in order to get free quilting.  It’s NOT fair to take advantage of my OCD perfectionist tendencies by sending things that need more attention. I’m not calling anyone out in particular, but you know who you are!  Anyway, one of the quilts that I picked out to quilt gave me an opportunity to illustrate some other preparation tips that are helpful when long arm quilting.  Mary #16 provided this beautiful strip pieced quilt top, which doesn’t have borders.  There’s nothing wrong with that, but several issues came up that I want to point out. When you do a quilt without borders, you end up with exposed seams along the outside of the quilt. Your quilt edges get handled a lot more when long arm quilting, and they are also loaded under tension.  This can cause edges to stretch and seams to unravel.  So if you have a quilt without borders, (or borders with seams along the edge) you should “stay stitch” around the perimeter, across the seams.  A “stay stitch” is simply a line of stitching, about 1/8″ from the edge, that stabilizes the fibers & keeps them from stretching. Mary did not know she needed to do this, so I did it for her, and now you all know what to do if you have the same situation.  This makes sure that Mary’s square quilt will stay square once it is loaded onto the long arm. Mary DID make sure her backing & batting were very generous around the outside edge, and it gave me lots of options for deciding to quilt this, which brings me to my next point. If you have a directional quilt (or a preference for which way is up), you definitely need to tell the quilter and mark it on your top (a safety pin is fine).  However, doing so doesn’t mean that the quilter is going to LOAD the quilt that way! In Mary’s case, her quilt had a definite feel for which way was up, but I actually loaded it sideways for quilting! The pattern I chose to work with for her quilt was much easier and faster to quilt in this direction.  Technically, a long arm quilter doesn’t need as much fabric along the top and bottom as what is needed on the side, but since you can’t guarantee which way the quilter will load it, it’s better to just provide enough fabric & batting in the first place, and give the quilter the flexibility to choose. Mary’s quilt also had a lovely pieced backing, but I want to use it to illustrate something. Wherever possible, if you are piecing a backing, please:1) Remove selvages before piecing.  Selvages are the tightest weave of the fabric without any give, and leaving them on can create puckers and inconsistent seams.2) Use a 1/2″ seam allowance. This provides extra stability for the backing, and helps when you -3) Press seams open.  The extra bulk created when you press seams to the side can cause skipped stitches and also hinder the quilt from rolling on to the poles evenly. It’s not always possible to do all of these things, and sometimes they can be compensated for during quilting, but it’s better if you try to make things easier for your long arm quilter.  More on Mary’s awesome quilt in another post! To endless possibilities, Ebony

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